Daniel and
Sydnee came to visit! First item on the itinerary was a trip to Cusco, the
Sacred Valley and, of course, Machu Picchu. This is Daniel and Syndee at a plaza on our
first night in Cusco. They were conscientiously photo-documenting their
visit, so look to them for the best account. We just enjoyed being with them.
In Cusco,
the locals refer to the “Inca,” the masterbuilders, and the “
Incapables,“ or
the Spaniards. This is Evie in a little and very old street with the classic Inca stone walls
- huge rocks cut to fit perfectly and securely without mortar. Unlike most
buildings later built by the Spaniards, these have survived wars and earthquakes
and are still in place and used. The picture does not show it clearly, but the
wall includes a stone with twelve angles.
We went to
the market in Cusco, a big affair with lots of stuff - clothes, souvenirs,
foods of all kinds, including fruits, vegetables, meats (including some we don´t
normally eat, such as cow´s head). This photo is meant to pay homage to the dairymen among
the Hyers. This is butter, with some
cheese at the back.
Cusco was
the center of the Inca empire, and the most important and sacred place in the
Inca religion was not Machu Picchu, but the Temple of the Sun (or Qurikancha)
in Cusco. The Spanish largely tore it down and used the stones to build the church
and convent of Santo Domingo, but a fair amount of the original still remains.
We are standing in the grounds of Quikancha, what at one time was the center of one
of the world´s largest empires.
Overlooking
Cusco is the ancient walled complex of Sacsayhuaman. It is impressive, but only
a small part of what was once there, as the Spanish hauled most of the rocks
down to Cusco to build homes and churches.
The picture is not of Sacsayhuaman, however, which is behind me, but of the
quarry for the rocks used to build it and a herd of llamas enjoying a pleasant
afternoon in the green grass (something hardly ever seen in Lima)
This is Awanakancha
in the Sacred Valley not far from Pisac. It is a small farm dedicated to llamas, alpacas and vicuñas and the intricate textiles produced from
their wool. Daniel and Evie are helping with the feeding.
More llamas (or these may be alpacas,I forgot how to tell the difference), but look at the ones in the background above. Those are vicuñas, which are relatives to alpacas and llamas, but not really domesticated. There are only a few herds of them left, but their wool is very fine (the Inca king wore clothing made from vicuna wool). It is also very expensive. The vicuñas don´t really get along that well with the other camelids, hence in a different and more open fenced area. Make note of the house in the background.

The place
also hosts native weavers from various villages in Peru, who using traditional
dyeing and weaving techniques make tapestries, clothing and other textile products
from the wool from these animals. Their products can be purchased in a very
nice (but expensive) store on site. Note
the weaver´s hat. The weavers wear hats indicating the village they´re from.
They stay in that house while working there. This is a way to preserve the high
quality and unique ancient weaving techniques that were being lost.
At Pisac in the Sacred Valley
Inca Rail - the train to Aguas Calientes
Evie and Sydnee having breakfast in the hotel in Aguas Calientes, at the base of the mountain with Machu Picchu
The bus from Augas Calientes to Machu Picchu (with big windows)
The road up to Machu Picchu. Thanks to the nice big windows there were some great views down that could really grab your attention, especially when the bus backs up to allow another bus pass on the narrow dirt road.
Some classic photos from Machu Picchu. Even though we were there in the "rainy season", our visit of Machu Picchu started early in the morning, and we were blessed with dry weather and even some sunshine!
Evie´s new trekking companion
A few words about dogs. We were a little surprised by the
number of apparently stray dogs in Cusco and Aguas Calientes. They were strays
in the sense that they had no collars, leashes or owners (as far as we could
determine), but were nevertheless well fed, healthy, well behaved (didn’t seem
to bother anyone or even other dogs) and walked around with a bit of an attitude,
like this was their place and they didn’t particularly need or notice you. I'm told dogs were important to the Incas and so there is a tradition to like and care for the dogs.
We were even more surprised to see the same thing at Machu
Picchu, a lot of stray dogs. In fact, Evie believes she saw one of the dogs on the
streets of Aguas Calientes the night before. Her theory is that they all come up to
Machu Picchu in the morning and basically hang out, all take nice long naps
together in the afternoon before heading back down to town. These dogs scored
comfy black rubber mats for the afternoon nap. (This is the entrance to the
only bathrooms onsite, which are packed in the morning, but not in the
late afternoon.) Machu Picchu was fantastic. It would also be a good place to
be a dog.